家 Bar

On a balmy evening in Chengdu five friends and I went to our latest local hangout. It's a small bar, decked-out in full Yunnan style, and sitting in the incredibly low-ceilinged loft on such a full, humid night I felt as though I had actually journeyed south, maybe even as far as Laos. The bar is a small but popular one, and on the warmest of evenings you can find patrons hailing from various nations seated in the large wicker chairs outside, just across the street from the副南(Funan) river. 

On this particular evening we had come out to support a friend of ours who was playing with his newly found band. The band members were three: Alex on the mandolin, 荣(Rong) on percussion, which consisted of an interesting array of old vases and dishes as well as your more typical hand-drums, and 尧(Yao) on guitar and vocals. The percussionist and singer had already been performing together for some time, and our friend Alex had just recently made the duet into a trio.

 While we were roasting away in the cramped upstairs, enjoying the music but hating the heat, a couple came in a sat next to our group. They had arrived a bit late, just at the end of the first set. Over the last few chords of the final song I could hear the man and the woman conversing in Chinese. I pricked up my ears at their arrival, because, as always with Chinese-foreign couples, I was curious about which language they chose to communicate in. In this case I was pleasantly surprised to hear the man speaking Chinese, and even more fascinated to hear his voice. It rose and fell, lyrically meeting each beat in the tonal language.

 After finishing his first set, Alex retired upstairs to join us for a short beer break before continuing with his second. Upon seeing him sit down with us, I overheard the man next to me mention to his wife, now in North American accented English, that he would like to meet the talented musician. Curious about the couple, I readily obliged his too-loudly spoken musing and called Alex over for an introduction. We quickly exchanged names, and learned that the man hailed from Toronto while his wife was from a smaller city outside Chengdu.

 His name was Paul, and he was a slight man in his late thirties. His blond hair was flecked with grey around the temples, and though his light blue eyes were surrounded by wrinkles that didn’t quite disappear after he smiled, his small mouth retained an almost impish quality; a remnant of youth carried over into middle-age.

His wife’s name was 美惠(Meihui), and her voice was distinctly deep and clear, certainly an alto as she switched dexterously into English. Her accent mimicked his, and they shared many of the same phrases and inflections of speech that couples so often do. She was petite, nearly half my size, and she looked even smaller sitting with her legs curled underneath her on a red floor cushion. She was dressed in a conservative cream-colored woman’s business suit, and sitting on the floor gave her a bit of trouble in her knee-length skirt. Though it would be hard for me to guess her age, I assumed her to be his junior by at least five years. She was an earnest woman with dark, serious eyes, but there was something about the rounded nature of her face and frame that lent her more than a touch of youthfulness.

Within moments we were chatting away lightly while Alex and her husband began to discuss music. 美惠 had many questions for me, which she fired slowly and methodically, taking time to consider my responses and sometimes to add an assenting comment. She asked the typical questions about where I was from, and why I was here in Chengdu, and whether or not I enjoyed teaching. When she paused for a moment in her questioning, I was able to slip in one of my own, "So, what do you do?"

"Well, actually, I am a judge," she replied looking at me directly, with a faint smile pulling at the corners of her mouth.

"A judge? But you are far too young to be a judge!" I responded incredulously, as I scrutinized her features more carefully, trying to find some mark of age within them.

And now she smiled fully, and nodded her head, clearly accustomed to such disbelief. "Yes, I've been a judge for only a few years, and I am younger than most judges."

"I think you are the first judge I have ever met, and you are certainly younger and more beautiful than any judge I ever expected to meet," I still couldn't quite place her in such heavy robes; within such a serious profession.

"Well, I was recommended for the position early by my mentor who was headed for retirement. I didn't plan on becoming a judge so soon, but it was a good opportunity." 美惠 obviously could view the astonishment on my face, and felt her position required a bit of explaining.

In this moment, hundreds of thoughts rushed into and out of my mind all at once. I wanted to ask her so many questions about the nature of judging other human beings for a living. What did it feel like to determine another's fate? Could she sleep at night after making such life-altering decisions? Had she ever second guessed her own instincts and interpretation, or wavered in the face of handing-down harsh punishments? But to ask such questions would have been presumptuous: too intimate for a first meeting, and inappropriate perhaps in such a relaxed atmosphere and setting.
Instead I asked her simply, "Do you find judging interesting and enjoyable?"

"Yes, being a judge is definitely interesting. It is not always an easy job, but I studied the law and always knew that this is what I wanted to do," 美惠answered me just as simply.

Our conversation was then interrupted by Paul, her husband, who was eager to inform both Alex and I that he and美惠 were in the process of forming a ska band. Paul was anxious to know whether or not Alex would be interested, and if either he or I had any other musically inclined friends. After throwing around this topic for awhile without getting an overly enthusiastic response from Alex, Paul and美惠 exchanged glances, surveyed their empty tonic water cans and began to excuse themselves.

As we said goodbye, I felt as though I had missed an exciting opportunity to ask美惠 about her livelihood. However, unable to broach such topics before, it was impossible for me to do so now. I had to be content with a pleasant goodbye and heartfelt wishes that we see each other again. Perhaps in the future she and Paul will themselves be playing at our local, or in another small venue.

 

 

About Me
savvy_18
I 'm Julia Maher, and I have been living off and on in China since the late summer of 2001. I have spent my time here both studying Chinese and teaching English, sometimes simultaneously, and others not. Most of my time has been spent living in Jiangsu province, but I have just recently moved to Chengdu hoping to experience life out west.
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